British Formal
Whilst I have grown accustomed to spelling like a Brit and eating like an Indian (“Nana ge Masala Dosa beku,” I can now say in fluent Kannada to order my favorite morning breakfast treat), I am in brain freeze as surely as if I had eaten an Indian ice cream parfait far too quickly when it comes to shifting my mode of dress. Straight away I requested of my hosts to take me shopping for Indian women’s wear and straight away I purchased two Salwar Kameez, the tunic top and balloon-style pants with scarves in shades of brilliant green and fuchsia. They sit, however, on the couch, where I gaze at them lovingly and imagine what a stark raving idiot I would look if I walked down the street. I’m not talking about risking something as dramatic as the Sari, which requires some serious amount of abdominal work before you take that one on. I’m talking about colorful tops and slacks, and yet there is just some strange and fearful thing about what amounts to me as trying to look Indian when in my estimation, I would be exposed as a fraud.
In comparison to the people in southern India, I look like an albino, pale and starkly washed out. Although I have many people look me over on a daily basis here when I walk around in British Formal, at least the clothing is to what I am accustomed, which is my little mantra of justification. Little prepared me, though, for our trip last weekend to Shravanabelagola, the pilgrimage site of the 58-foot tall monolith, Jain deity Bahubali. Better than any ride Disneyland could offer, the drive into the countryside kept me in a constant running monologue of reflection about dharma and karma, for it felt that at any moment one’s life could end.
Ravi, my driver, is exceedingly skilled at manoeuvering in classic Bangalore style. If the road has three lanes, he drives down the white line of one, whilst abreast us as many as five or so additional vehicles speed too. In the first week, I had grown accustomed to this highly conventional mode of being, Indian style, but highly unconventional mode, Western style.
“Aren’t there traffic laws, Ravi?”
“Madam, they are guidelines,” he replied.
Several of my new Indian friends have reported that if they lived in the United States for a while, it was fearsome to drive once again in Bangalore. We frequently turn a corner at full tilt and come to a screeching halt because one of my adopted cows has taken up residence in the middle of the road. Indians exude patience. No one honks. No one yells. No one jumps out to guide the cow out of the road. We simply wait. And wait. And wait. Meditation has replaced my acerbic Los Angeles angst. During my first few days in Bangalore, I would query, “Where is that cow going?” I now replaced it with the question, “Where is that cow not going?”
I arrived in time to see the faithful anointing the head of Bahubali with gallons of purified water, which at its base was captured in brass pots and given to the pilgrims. People sat around, chatted, and performed various ceremonial acts. Jainism suggests that as we are captured in our bodies at present, that it is difficulty to comprehend true reality. A pilgrimage such as one to Bahubali, may result in samyak darsana, which is Sanskrit for rational perception. If one attains this frame of mind, emptying oneself of preconceived notions and prejudices, then one can discern the true nature of things, which in turn leads to ethical conduct, and ultimately to salvation.
As I walked amidst the followers, many asked to take photographs of me and whether their children might touch me. I was more than happy to oblige, for I recognized that these many hours from a major city I was likely the only Westerner these lovely people had ever seen in person. Indians are curious people. I had read before I arrived to expect a good lot of staring and questioning, which is considered acceptable and appropriate conduct in a society that places high premium on relationships, be they personal or professional. What I had not anticipated was that regardless of my own mask, my own costume of dress, the individuals whom I have met accepted me regardless, for it is not a matter of differences being either better or worse, but rather simply being different. After seeing a few more remarkable temples, Ravi and I headed back to Bangalore. By the end of the day the Digunbara—the naked Jain holy men— had outnumbered the British Formal two to one.
You may learn more about the preparations for the Head Anointing Ceremony of Bahubalil at http://www.deccanherald.com/deccanherald/Feb82006/index204745200627.asp